If they’re dirty, their ability to lock focus accurately is impaired. The contacts between your lens and your camera channel information back and forth between the lens and the camera. There’s rarely a solution to this problem except that you need to find a spot where the ground between you and your subject is cooler. This problem affects telephoto shooters more than wide angle shooters. This makes the auto-focusing system of your camera go haywire. When warm air rises up, it mixes with the cool air above and that creates a difference in air densities. If it’s a hot and sunny day you could actually be fighting heat refraction. That means when you rely on the AF point, your focusing is going to be off. It can sometimes be not quite at the place that the guide seems to point at. You know those red or yellow AF points? They’re not always consistent with where the AF point is actually positioned. Wrong AF mode can be a problem for poor AF performance 4. The same way, if your camera AF area mode is incorrectly set you are going to have problems. If it is anything other than AF-C (or Continuous Servo AF) you’ve got a problem. E.g., if you are photographing birds and you seem to be getting blurred images all the time check the active AF mode. One of the most common problems for consistently not getting a sharp image is that your camera is set to the wrong AF mode. Then use a manual blower to dust the AF sensor. To do this set your camera to Sensor Cleaning Mode. It is a good idea to periodically clean your sensor when your camera is consistently front or backfocusing. This problem is compounded when you’re shooting in low light or low contrast subjects. Dirty AF sensors can impair the ability of your camera to focus precisely. There is another set of sensors that are located at the base of the camera. When we talk about sensors we only refer to the main sensor that sits behind the mirror. There are other off-camera options such as LensAlign and FoCal. This is known as AF fine-tune or AF Micro Adjust feature. Some cameras come with a built-in process to recalibrate your lens for that particular camera-lens combination. This is not something really serious and it can be adjusted pretty quickly. If your lens is consistently focusing in front or back of the intended point of focus, your lens needs to be calibrated. A camera’s auto-focusing performance depends on a number of aspects and any one of them can throw it haywire: What works at one print size won't work as well at another.If you’re consistently struggling with poor auto-focus performance and want to know how you can improve, this video from Steve Perry is a treasure-trove of ideas that you can use. The amount and type of sharpening is something that must match the display size. This is also why sharpening is applied to give the desired effect It just emphasises what detail is there to fool the eye. But that does not recover detail I lost due to the bad focus. I can take a slightly out of focus image and apply sharpening to it carefully to give an improved appearance. You can only add the appearance of more detail or enhance the image to make detail more apparent to the eye. To put that another way, what is in focus is as detailed as it can be at the aperture used. You cannot really improve focus in the same way. You can improve the appearance sharpness ( to some extent ) by using appropriate post processing ( "sharpening" ). The simplest way to think of it is that "sharp" is a visual effect, whereas something being in focus or out of focus is a technical measure.
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